Of tapas and old-world charm

My visit to one of Spain’s most charming cities, Valladolid

by Caning Jaramillo

One of the most underrated cities in Spain is Valladolid. This beautiful city is about 735 metres above sea level and is located in the Castile and León region, just 178 kilometres northwest of Madrid. It is accessible via the AVE train in just over an hour—amazing!

Despite its rich history, cultural heritage, and outstanding architecture, Valladolid never receives the attention it deserves from tourists, unlike bigger cities such as Madrid, Barcelona, or even Seville. These cities attract many tourists all year round, perhaps because their famous football clubs in the well-known “La Liga Española” often appear on TV and in media headlines around the world.

Valladolid has a deep historical background. Founded in 1074, this charming city was an important centre during the medieval and Renaissance periods. It served as the capital of Spain in the early 17th century under King Philip III. The city played a key role in Spain’s history, with notable events such as the signing of the Treaty of Tordesillas in 1494, which divided newly discovered lands between Spain and Portugal. In 1808, the city was occupied by the French during the Peninsular War (1808–1814), initiated by Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion of Spain and Portugal. Four years later, it was retaken by Spanish guerrillas and British forces. In the 20th century, during the Spanish Civil War, the city was bombarded and captured by the Nationalist forces commanded by General Franco. Later, it became one of the most important cities in the country’s industrial development.

Today, Valladolid is a modern and prosperous city of about 300,000 inhabitants, characterised by its continuously growing economic and urban development. The city is home to several impressive landmarks, including the Cathedral of Valladolid, known for its Renaissance architecture, and the Plaza Mayor, one of Spain’s earliest main squares, featuring a harmonious mix of red façades and arcades.

The National Sculpture Museum in Valladolid houses an extensive collection of Spanish sculpture from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. San Pablo Church is another architectural gem, renowned for its intricate Gothic façade. The University of Valladolid, founded in the 13th century, is one of the oldest universities in Spain and features beautiful historical buildings.

Valladolid is famous for its Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations, which are among the most important in Spain, featuring elaborate processions and religious ceremonies. The city also hosts the Valladolid International Film Festival (Seminci), a significant event in the film industry.

The local cuisine is another highlight, with specialities like “lechazo asado” (roast lamb) and a variety of tapas that reflect the region’s culinary traditions. The city is also part of the Ribera del Duero wine region, renowned for its excellent red wines.

The surrounding region of Valladolid is characterised by picturesque landscapes and historical sites. Visitors can explore nearby attractions such as the Castle of Peñafiel and the wine-producing villages along the Ribera del Duero. I feel fortunate that during my visit to this wonderful region, I had the opportunity to sample some of the best wines in the world, including those from the famous Bodega Vega Sicilia.

Valladolid is also renowned for its tapas culture, considered among the best in Spain. The city boasts a vibrant tapas scene celebrated for its variety, quality, and innovation. Some popular tapas in Valladolid include “morcilla de Burgos” (a type of blood sausage), “lechazo asado” (roast lamb, often served in small portions), and various seafood tapas like “gambas al ajillo” (garlic shrimp). You can also find inventive takes on traditional dishes, such as tapas incorporating “setas” (wild mushrooms) from the region.

Valladolid offers tapas routes where visitors can hop from bar to bar, sampling different tapas along the way. Areas like Calle Pasión and Plaza Mayor are particularly known for their concentration of excellent tapas bars. Each bar often has its speciality, encouraging a fun and delicious exploration of the local cuisine.

Like in much of Spain, the tapas experience in Valladolid is not just about the food but also about the social aspect. Locals and visitors alike gather in bustling bars, enjoying tapas with drinks like vermouth, wine from the Ribera del Duero region, or “cerveza” (beer). The affordability of tapas makes it easy to try a variety of dishes in one evening.

Tapas in Valladolid are a culinary experience not to be missed. Whether you’re enjoying traditional flavours or innovative creations, the city’s tapas culture offers a delightful way to experience the local cuisine and ambience.

Overall, Valladolid offers a mix of historical, cultural, and culinary experiences that make it a compelling destination for travellers interested in exploring a less touristy yet culturally rich part of Spain.

^{The author is the Spanish Industrial Coordinator and Spanish language instructor at the Department of Asian and European Languages, Faculty of Languages and Linguistics, University Malaya. He can be reached at caningjaramillo@um.edu.my}